A.   How much does my Maxima weigh?

Using Microsoft Carpoint's figures, a 1991 SE manual weighs 3029. A GXE automatic weighs 3086. A 1995 manual SE weighs in at 3010, an 1995 auto SE at 3072. A 2000 manual SE weighs 3199 and the automatic 3245.

http://carpoint.msn.com/Vip/Specifications/Nissan/Maxima/1995.asp

        B.   What constitutes a good tune up?

1. Perform a coolant flush
2. Inspect / Replace plugs and wires
3. Replace PCV valve (19mm wrench)
4. Replace fuel filter (on firewall for both VE and VG)
5. Clean throttle body (use throttle body cleaner/ CARB clean and toothbrush)
6. Adjust throttle cable linkage
7. Change transmission fluid change (Dextron III)
8. Change oil (5W 30 recommended)
9. "Recharge" intake (if you have a K&N)
10. Check idle (700 +/- 50)
11. Check and Adjust timing if necessary (15 degrees stock for VG motor)
12. Check and Adjust Distributor Cap and Rotor
13. Brake fluid level
14. Power steering fluid level
15. Windshield washer fluid level
16. Operation of all lights, interior and exterior
17. Condition and pressure of all tires, including the spare.
18. Check all electrical connections for injectors, sensors, etc for corrosion
19. Check battery terminals for corrosion

 

II.  ENGINE

      C.   Poor Idling

            2.   For Idle hunting, the FSM recommends.

                 checking exhaust gas sensors and the EGR control valve to ensure it's not sticking.

            3.   My VG is idling too high at times, what could this problem be?

The first thing the FSM suggests is to check the A.A.C valve harness connector. I would pull it out and ensure it's not corroded.

The next thing it mentions is checking for intake air leak:
    1. disconnect EGR harness connector
    2. after racing engine at 1500 rpms under no load for 30 seconds, does the engine speed drop?

If it does, discover the air leak and repair

The last thing you should do is check the throttle linkage to ensure it moves smoothly.

            4.    How do I properly set the idle on my VG?

    From: Bryan Tisch [btisch@iupui.edu]

    Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2000 2:51 AM

    To: 'maxima@microwave.ph.msstate.edu'

 

Here are some instructions from the FSM on your idle speed. Make sure the engine is warmed up to operating temperature before making adjustments. Also, before jumping the gun and adjusting the idle, the FSM suggest making sure your air cleaner is clean, your hoses and ducts are in good shape, your EGR valve is operating correctly, electrical connectors are in place, gaskets (probably mean throttle body gaskets).

 

1)   Check idle speed (A/T: in "N" position), it should be at 700 - 800 rpms for the VG motor

      a. if it is fine, email me for further instruction

 

2)    If it is not, close the A.A.C. valve completely by turning the diagnostic mode selection on the E.C.U. fully        clockwise

a. this is the screw on the right side of the ECU (shown in figure)

b. (The ECU is behind your ashtray)

3)     Adjust engine speed by turning idle speed adjusting screw

a. this is located on the engine just to the right of the dual throttle bodies.

b. the screw faces upward and is on the device called the A.A.C. valve.

4)     Operate the A.A.C. valve (open it) by turning the diagnostic mode selector on E.C.U. fully

        counterclockwise         

       D.    Fuel Injectors

     1.   How do I check and/or replace my fuel injectors? (VG)

Fuel injectors can be checked easily using a Volt Ohm Multimeter (VOM).  The injectors are to retain a resistance between 10 - 14 ohms.  Set your VOM for the lowest resistance reading to read this resistance.  The rear cylinders: 1,3,5 are accessible for a resistance reading directly on the fuel injector harness.  However the injectors for 2,4,6 can be measured more easily, using the harness connector on the side of the engine under the intake pipe leading to the elbow.  Take the tube off between the elbow leading to the throttle body and the MAF.  Pull the right harness (you will see two).  There are four prongs on the end of the connector that is in the right side of the engine.  They are setup as follows:  Top two prongs = 2,8; bottom two prongs = 4,6.  To check cylinder #2 touch 2 & 8 (upper two prongs), to check cylinder #4 touch 4 & 8 (lower left & upper right prongs), to check cylinder #6 touch 6 & 8 (the right two prongs).

For the replacement procedure I used on my 91 SE, go here.

Steven 93 SE states 10 - 14 ohms from the Chilton's manual for the VE also.  

       E.   Engine Knocking

Posted by Bryan (91 SE) on October 28, 2000 at 14:21:33:

My advice is to pick up a can of "Gunk" engine degreaser and go to a hand power washer. Spray the Gunk liberally around the engine compartment, avoiding painted surface. Let the degreaser soak a couple minutes and then rinse with the power sprayer. Avoid soaking the distributor (leave the cover on). Avoid hitting the wires hard with the spray too. Finally, don't aim right in the spark plug holes.

Have the engine off while spraying it down, avoiding the above areas. I would spray the heck out of the other areas. My white Maxima could take a spraying all over the engine- including the distributor cover, wires, etc. Nothing would stop it from running. However, my black Maxima is a little more of a woos when it comes to water. It ran kind of funny for about a day until everything dried out under there.

Don't panic if it runs bad or doesn't run at all after you power wash. These cases will be minimal, just open the hood and let the sun shine on the engine. It will start within a half an hour, from my past experiences.

      G.   Performance Parts - how much horsepower do each give?

III.   TRANSMISSION

This is completely normal. On cold mornings, both of my 91's will delay going into overdrive until somewhat warmed up. I think the delay has lasted as long as 8 - 10 minutes.

       B.   How much fluid comes out from a passive drain?  How do you perform the change?

For the VG engine, only about 2.8 to 3 quarts comes out. The plug is on the front part of the transmission and is unscrewed with a 1/2 drive socket wrench. As for the VE engine, almost all of the fluid drains out via a 19 mm plug on the bottom of the transmission. Check to ensure a proper level with the car level and running after the job. 

        C.   VE engine shifts when it’s not supposed to

Posted by Jeremy (92se) on April 21, 2000 at 08:06:54:

My engine seemed to be shifting for no reason when I first started driving my car in the morning. I took it to the shop and they had the hardest time figuring out the problem. So here is the answer.

One of my coils was bad. I have the VE engine which has the six coils and one was shorting out. This short resulted in a loss of power. This loss of power told my car that if it wanted to stay at the same speed it needed to shift gears. hence the problem is now solved. Thanks for all your guys input.

        D.    Overdrive not engaging, transmission getting caught between 3rd and 4th (auto)

Posted by Uncle Pete (89 SE) on October 28, 2000 at 07:53:22:

As long as they changed the friction band then it's going to be the servo or the valve body, neither of which require full removal of the transmission.

The 'take off' was the tranny kicking back into third when he engaged full throttle.

How is second gear? Please if you can, try this. Drive along at 50. Switch the overdrive off. NAIL the throttle. The tranny SHOULD kick-down into second and take off like a bat out of hell. If it does then the friction band mechanism is OK and the problem is electronic with the selection of fourth gear. If it doesn't, say for instance the revs start flying up but the car goes nowhere fast then you have a problem with the friction bend. Please Bell, try it if you can, because it will really help with diagnostics.

        E.    How long does a rebuilt transmission usually last for under normal driving conditions?

Posted by Bryan (91 SE) on February 15, 2001 at 18:07:39:

It should be as good as new. I had mine rebuilt with a remanufactured torque converter and drove it 20K without problems before I sold it.

Posted by DA-MAX (91 GXE) on February 15, 2001 at 17:27:30:

being that it is done right......should last the rest of the car, the only reason my second rebuild fell through was because the guys who installed it never really fixed the slow leak and since I was pushing WOT almost everday it was only a while until it broke.......the third time I'm not sure, but I think it was because I had no cooler and *cough*torque braked*cough* it once or twice.......anyways its acting fine, pulls like a champ, and it'll love the mods I have planned for it this summer even more!!!!

A few tips:

1. get an auxiliary cooler,

2. use ATF w/ Dextron II or III in it,

3. always look for leaks!!!(can't stress that enough), 4. Level 10 suggests a full flush every 20K miles........

5. and if you really want it to act like new, get the valve body recalibrated (Transgo kit), the actual install looks to be a little $costly$, but it makes a world of difference so I have heard!

        F.      Does my VE have a Vicious Limited Slip Differential (VLSD)?  (Posted by Mikey P & Daren)

The twin cam motor and manual transmission usually had a limited slip differential. Just to be sure  open the hood and check the metal shield on the passenger side of the firewall. you will see the VIN# and then the transmission code. If it reads RS5F5OV, then you have LSD if it reads RS5F5OA, then you have an open differential.

        G.        How do I change my automatic transmission bushing?   (Posted by Aaron Kimball)

Repair of the shifter linkage bushing.  Aaron Kimball provided the great below write-up of the bushing change.  Often times the transmission will not engage in gear, despite being put in the "D" position and one will have to tap it back slightly to have it engage.  This cheap new bushing will fix the issue.  The repair will tighten the shift selector and linkage.  Cost of the bushing at a Nissan dealer is $1.50.

Part #: 34552-D4000 Tools: Jack, jack stands or just ramps, 10mm socket, phillips screwdriver, and needle nose pliers

Make sure your exhaust is cool because your hand will be bumping it during the repair. I just put a fan pointed straight at it and the exhaust was plenty cool enough after 10 minutes. Jack your car up or drive it up on some ramps so you can easily get to the catalytic converter part of underneath your car. Get your Phillips screwdriver, a 10mm socket, and remove the heat shield directly above the catalytic converter. There are 5 10mm/Phillips bolts. You might need a universal joint socket to reach a tight place. Now, try to slide the shield towards the rear of the vehicle so that it will expose the 90 degree joint at the bottom of the linkage. If the shield is still in the way, go ahead and remove the bolts on the heat shield directly above the cat-back resonator. Once this is loosened and/or out of the way, then you will be able to get the catalytic converter heat shield out of the way.

Now, get some needle nose pliers and remove the cotter pin that is holding the linkage arm and washers in place. Once removed, note the way the washers go. For me, there was no bushing up there because it rotted off. But if there is, remove the old bushing and clean the area a bit so the new bushing will easily slide in place. I squirted a little brake cleaner up there and wiped it.

Now, put the new bushing in place and put the thin washer on first and then the thick washer next. Then, put the cotter pin back in the hole. This might be a little struggle, but you'll get it.

Now that your done, go through the gears without turning on the engine. Make sure everything is good. Bolt the heat shields back up and you're done.

 

IV.   ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS

        A.   Lighting

Size H3 (55 watt OEM) for driving lights, they come with the little white wire. As for the headlights, 9004. I have the Narva Range Power's and am pleased with them. Keep your fingers off these bulbs when installing because the oils from them will get on the glass of the bulb and cause the bulb to overheat and ultimately a premature life.

               2.   How do I replace the driving light bulbs?    Posted by: "bluemax" 93 SE

I discovered that the "Stanley offset ratchet screwdriver" (part #68-412) does the trick on removing the rear driving lamp screws. Its a great little screwdriver that ratchets on a right angle so it needs almost no clearance.

     3.   How do I replace the driving lights and fixture?

These things can be a big pain.  Before knowing about the Stanley offset ratchet screwdriver, this is the method I'd use to replace the bulb.  Basically, there are two 10 mm bolts that hold each unit to the car. On the other side of the bolt is a nut. I had a problem with the nut spinning on my passenger driving light and was not able to take off the driving light. Then, to make matters worse, the other bolt snapped. I ended up drilling out both holes and putting number 20 1/4 inch (11 mm) bolts through and mounting the driving lights. I recommend staying with 10 mm if you can because it is hard getting a ratchet extension up behind the driving lamp housing. 

Speaking from the standpoint of the passenger driving light, you'll need a small 10 mm closed/opened ended wrench and a 10 mm socket with an extension. The bolt on the far corner of the car is the one I did first. Open your hood and take out your headlight bulb. This will make it easier to reach down the hole and get the wrench on the nut on top of the metal that holds the driving lamp fixture. Put your left arm in the hole and locate the nut with the 10 mm closed wrench. Then extract the bolt from the backside of the driving lamp. The second one is also just as hard. I removed 3 bolts from the plastic facie underneath the bumper so I could again, get a wrench on the nut from the other bolt. I repeated the process and took this bolt out. Now the unit is out, next remove the wire harness. There are two Phillips screws on the back of the unit, remove those and then open it up. Replacement of the H3 bulb should be self explanatory. 

        B.   Sensors

              1.  How do you change the speed sensor?

Posted by jewellboy (91 SE) on April 22, 2000 at 08:44:57:

The procedure is really easy. The part is just behind your oil filter by the firewall. It is held in place by a single 10mm (I think) screw, and the electrical harness is just about 18 in. above. Just pull the old one out, and drop the new one in. BTW, make sure they send you the right one - Courtesy was under the impression that the part number was the same for auto and stick. This is NOT true. I pulled one from a 91 SE stick in a junkyard, and the gear was the wrong size/length for my auto. The statement about the lack of a cable is correct. It is just the sensor and the wire to the speedometer. It should fix all of the problems that you are having. Hope this helps.

    2.   Where is the coolant temperature sensor located on the VE?

The coolant temperature sensor is located left of the throttle body and a few inches lower. It has a red plug. It is typical that these get corroded (both the plug and sensor). Many experience better performance after cleaning it.  

    3.   MAF function and testing procedures (VE)

Posted by «§»Craig B«§» (93 SE) on September 18, 2001 at 11:48:58:

Taken from FSM:

The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor directly measures the amount of air flowing into the engine. The sensor is mounted between the air cleaner assembly and the air cleaner outlet tube.

The sensor utilizes a hot wire sensing element to measure the amount of air entering the engine. The sensor does this by sending a signal, generated by the sensor when the incoming air cools the hot wire, to the ECM. The signal is used by the ECM to calculate the injector pulse width, which controls the air/fuel ratio in the engine.

Testing

1.)  Using a multi-meter, check for voltage by back probing the MAF sensor connector. Connect the + probe on the tester to the B terminal of the connector. This connector should have 5 wires going into the 6 slot connector. The lettering starts on the side where the first wire is (A, B, C, D, E, empty). So you want to test the second wire on the side without the empty connection. Keep this connector connected while you are running the tests. Do this by folding back the rubber boot from the back of the connector

2.)  With the ignition switch ON and the engine stopped, voltage should be less than 1.0 volt.

3.)  With the engine idling at operating temperature, voltage should be 1.0-1.7 volts.

4.)  With the engine running at approximately 2,500 rpm, voltage should be 1.5-2.1 volts.

It is important to watch for a linear voltage rise in response to increases in engine rpm, up to about 4000 rpm.

5.)  If voltage is not within specifications, check the power and ground circuits.

6.)  If the power and ground circuits test okay, the MAF sensor may be faulty.

       C.   What does the power / comfort switch do?

 Posted by Matt (93GXE) on January 25, 2001 at 21:14:58:

That that switch does is simply change the shift points on the transmission. when you've got it in power mode, it sill downshift easier (with less gas at a certain speed), and it will up-shift at higher rpm than the other mode.

There's no real "auto" mode, it's simply the center position on the switch.. but we'll call it "auto" for the sake of consistency.. nothing wrong with calling it that anyway. :)

In "comfort" mode, it's the same deal, only a less aggressive setting.

say you're pulling out from a stoplight and you're at 1/4 throttle.. (pretty average driving)..

if it's in comfort mode, it will shift into second gear ~2400 rpm.

"auto" mode, it'll shift ~2800 rpm..

"power" mode, it'll shift ~3200 rpm..

Then to get it to shift back down into first, you'll have to use 1/2 throttle in "power" mode, 3/4 throttle in "auto" mode, and full throttle in "comfort" mode.

These aren't exact numbers, just meant to give you an idea of why it's doing what it does.

Also, while you're driving around town (under 50-60mph) I recommend leaving your overdrive off.. (it's the little button on the side of your shifter, if you don't know that one already. :)

     D.    Clock

            Great instructions with pictures here:  http://www.geocities.com/craigbracegt/maxima/clock/clock.html 

V.     MECHANICAL COMPONENTS

The window regulators on our third generation Maximas have a defect.  Due to a lack of support and weak plastic pulleys, they often break.  A cable rides over the top and bottom pulley, pulling the window up and down.  On the three that I've done, the pulley has snapped, causing the cable to break free and the window to fall.  Craig Brace has an excellent website that has the replacement procedure for this regulator.  I listed some additional tips below that he may or may not have put on his site.  This is a very straight forward job and will save you money. The part is under 60 dollars. I saw a job receipt from a Nissan dealer from the previous owner of my girlfriend's 92 SE and it was over $200.  

Craig's site:  http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gte671n/mymax.html

1. Let the window ascend and descend before putting the door back together. You will see there is some "play" in the regulator placement on the top and bottom bolts. Simply hook the button panel back up and assure that the window moves up and down freely.

2. clean the window tracks inside the door. They may be dry and cracked. I sprayed WD40 on mine and wiped them down. The window goes up and down very nicely now. Matt 93 SE recommends using a Teflon lube spray.

3. Oil the spring behind the key hole. My key turns more freely now. I also noticed there was a little rust on it too.

4. Do not over tighten the screws. Remember, you're only going into thin sheet metal on the inside of the door. I recommend using only a screwdriver to tighten

5. If the screws on the motor assembly do not come off with a screwdriver, use vice grip pliers on them. I was able to get mine off with a large #3 screwdriver, but on the previous one I did, I had to use the vice grip pliers.  

          B.   Moon-roof issues             

V.   Bose Audio System

        A.   Can I interchange the Bose 89 - 90 speakers/amps with the 91 - 94 speakers/amps?

Physically the speakers will fit in, but the general answer to the question is no - especially for the front speakers. The amplifiers are different between the different years. For example, the two biggest amplifiers in the 89 - 90's front speakers are 1000 uf, while in the 91 = 94's the number is 820 uf. The front speakers from the 89 - 90 Bose will not work in the 91 - 94 Bose units. You can force the connector in, but there likely won't be any sound. The prongs do not line up perfectly.  

As for the rear speakers/amps, again, physically they fit in fine.  Again, you have to force the connector in. I filed mine down just a little. The speakers work, but are considerably louder than the 91- 94 speakers. If you get one 89 - 90 Bose for your 91 - 94 system, make sure you get another, so you can adjust the balance to tone the replacements down.  

How about the speakers themselves (without the amp)? Will they fit? Yes, you can interchange the speakers themselves. The speaker ohms are the same, or at least close.    /Bryan

        C.   Where can I get replacement parts?

I've found three places on the Internet.  

1. http://www.davescoolstuff.com/ They offer new amplifiers for $110

2. http://www.willmanselectronics.com/nissan.htm Here is a place that will repair Bose speakers/amps for a flat rate of $75.

3. http://www.boserepair.com/html/nissan.htm Here is a place that will repair Bose speakers/amps for $89.

        D.   What is the size of non-Bose speakers?  How do I remove them?

                They are 4 X 6. You can fit up to 6.5" with no problems though. Make adaptor plates. - Matt 93 GXE

                You must pull off the door panel. Craig Brace has instructions with pictures here: Matt also has a write-up here, on                 his FAQ page. 

        E.    How do you remove the rear speakers / amp assembly?

    I just removed one yesterday from the junk yard. It's the same procedure Matt D listed below. Just remove     the the rear seat enough to lift the rear deck lid up around the speakers. There are three clips and three 8 mm bolts. I removed all three bolts and two clips. Then I went to the trunk and carefully pulled the speaker and amp assembly down. If you simply need to remove the speaker, that is even easier and can be done solely from the trunk. - /Bryan (91 SE), 6/16/01.

    If yours is the same as my 89, you have to get them out from the top of the rear deck. You can pull up on the front edge of the back seat and remove it. Then there are 4 bolts holding the seat back rest in. Then you pop up the deck lid cover and voila. The clips holding the cover in are delicate so be as careful as possible. -Posted by Matt D (89 SE) on June 10, 2001.

F.   My speaker amps are not getting the +12V from the switching relay, I can get them to work by manually putting power to them, but otherwise there is no sound. Does anyone know the location of the switching relay?  

The Bose relay is mounted on a bracket (with an other relay) behind the driver's side kick panel. You may want to listen carefully if you hear it click on and off with the radio on/off. The relay is steered by the head unit, but the circuitry can fail. If that happens, the radio no longer triggers the relay and...no amp action.  

I fried the circuit in my head unit by letting the head unit switch too many amps and equalizers without a relay. So I hardwired the relay into the accessory circuits of the car. You can do the same. Your Bose amps will be on all the time that your ignition is on. In my case, I rarely drive with the radio off, so for those few times the amps can be on and be silent. No great loss. It stretched the use of the otherwise fine head unit without the need for an expensive repair. 

There are three blue relays in that area (on my 93SE). There are two on one bracket, the Bose is the one closest to the OUTSIDE fender panel. There are four wires, Black is ground for the relay coil, G/W is the steering wire from the head unit you want to cut and connect to acc 12 volt somewhere, BR/B is power coming from the fuse block, and red is switched 12 V going to your Bose amps. The wires are kind of short and a bit tricky to work with, but not impossible. It helps when you take the bracket and two relays off the body, and twist them into the cabin for a little more slack. - John van de pol

G.   Will a double DIN Bose unit from a '93 or '94 Maxima replace the single DIN unit from a 91+ Maxima?

Yes, it sure will.  I am not sure if it will replace the 89 - 90 Bose systems, since that single DIN unit is facially different than that of the single DIN unit from 91 on.  Also, the wiring at the speakers is slightly different in it's fit on the 89 - 90 Bose systems, so perhaps they are in the rear also?  If I were to guess, the double DIN unit would also replace the 89 - 90 single DIN Bose though.  Back to the main question, I easily fitted a double DIN Bose unit in my girlfriend's '92, replacing her single DIN Bose / single DIN Sony CD player.  The wires plugged in without a problem.

VI.   SUSPENSION

         B.     What is the installation procedure for installing the Addco rear sway bar ("RSB")?

                 Posted by Andy (90se5spd) on April 09, 2002 at 20:26:42

VII.   BODY

        A.    How do you re-affix the spoiler down on the trunk? 

My trunk was rusted under the spoiler on each side. Additionally, my spoiler was corroded to the point where it was not going to use the same mounting techniques it did when it was stock. I first had a body shop take the spoiler off and fix the rust underneath for like $125. They put the spoiler back on, but the problem was not solved and it still did not seat well on the two ends, despite the double sided tape they tried. I tried my own double sided tape and even superglue to try to make the spoiler flush on those sides, but it did not work. 

Upon recommendation from a friend with a 90 SE, I went to Kendrick Nissan in Lafayette, Indiana and they had the fix for me. They used windshield glaze/glue to affix the spoiler back down to the painted surface. They used C clamps and let dry for a couple of hours. The spoiler was then as close to normal as it was going to get. They performed the fix for $40. I suggest first getting the body work taken care of if there is rust, and then having the spoiler mounted down with this windshield glaze. After this fix, it wasn't going anywhere.  /Bryan91SE

B.    What are the torque specifications on the wheels, what is the procedure to remove them?

Final torque wrench setting should be 72 - 87 ft-lbs, according to my Nissan manual and tightened in a crisscross pattern. Tighten them at this setting after lowering the car from the jack. While it is up in the air, tighten them somewhat before lowering. I think 80 is a good number to shoot for, as Kaleb mentioned to me.

 

VIII.   Driving

        A.      What is involved in the process of the heel and toe driving technique?

Jim Dressler explained this technique back in April of '98 on the Maxima mailing list.

Downshifting - In order to accelerate quickly out of a corner, the car must be shifted to the appropriate lower gear before the corner. Naturally this should be done as late as possible, preferably at the same time that you are braking for the corner.

This presents a small problem. If you are braking and shifting, your right foot is on the brake, and your left foot is on the clutch. Without throttle input, the engine RPM's will drop quite low and when you let the clutch out, you will 'pop' or jerk the rear wheels. This sudden jerk acts as an additional brake, but could cause the rear wheels to exceed their traction limit and cause a skid, to say nothing of the potential damage to either the engine or drivetrain! The solution lies with "heel and toeing". This technique during downshifting helps us achieve smoothness, while eliminating possible clutch slippage and extending the life of the transmission.

This technique is one that should be thoroughly practiced until it becomes second nature. It can not be learned on the track. Here's how it goes: 1) As you begin braking with your right foot, depress the clutch with your left foot. (so far, just like normal). 2) With the clutch all the way in, two things happen: move the stick shift into the desired lower gear, and rotate your right foot so that the ball of your right foot is still on the brake, and your heal is over the gas pedal. 3) Now "blip" the throttle to raise the RPM's by about 1000 - this matches the RPM's. 4) Now release the clutch, and ease off the brake.

Here's a real life example. You're going down the back straight 100mph,

4th gear, and 6000rpm. Ahead is a 90 degree right turn coming up quick, and the exit speed of this corner is 60mph. Exiting the corner at 60mph in 4th gear doesn't work, so you have to downshift. Just before the corner, brake in a straight line. In just moments you've slowed to 80mph, and you should now depress the clutch. Now rotate your right foot, shift into 3rd gear, and blip the throttle. While you are rotating your foot and blipping the throttle, you are still slowing down, and you are now going about 60mph. When the tach reaches about 5500rpm, let the clutch out smoothly, and ease off the brake. That's it. Now go out on the street and practice! (you can practice 3rd to 2nd gear downshifts on the streets - 3rd gear and 45mph into a 2nd gear, 20mph corner.) This example only works if you are turning 6000rpm in 4th gear at 100mph and 5500rpm in 3rd gear at 60mph, but you get the idea.

Do not expect to be able to master track driving and "heel and toe" in one weekend

        B.     What is the best way to drag race?

Posted by Mr. Rose (91' SE VG 5spd w/COBRA rims.) on April 22, 2000 at 11:36:10:

Before you get crazy on the internal mods and start looking at power adders, lets look at those E.Ts. My guess is that you are leaving when the light turns green? (I'm right) well that is the biggest problems with E.T.s these days. Too many people waiting foe the green. When at the light...

1. stage shallow. That means just barely tripping the light with your tires. (turning both small yellows on)

--- this should be easy with an auto.

2. each yellow light has a .5 sec differential between them. (2 light = 1 sec) (3 yellows + 1 green = 2 full sec)

3. you must leave on the last yellow light. I mean you must leave when the electricity hits the light to make it yellow. Don't wait for the full yellow.

4. when leaving on the full yellow, you should not even see the green light.

5. with an auto I hope you are using your left foot to hold the brake. (power brake it)

6. for every .1 you shave off of your 60 foot, you will pick up .15-.2 at the top end. SO if you got a 2.0 60 foot, then you could be in the 15.80 - 16.0 range.

Many practices with the COBRA have proven this method. Also I did not make this up. I read a lot of bracket racing mags. This is the most popular way to drag.

• also your ET does not start till you leave the lights. So you could actually sit there for a minute or so and leave how you like.

Back to the main page (if you don't have the frame to your left)